Art movements are shape-shifters. The chiaroscuro of Caravaggio with its wide value differences and relatively crisp edges and details blurs and becomes more vague in the hands of Rembrandt a half century and a half continent later, for example. Or perhaps the canted perspective and drab color in much of Cezanne indeed morphed into abstraction and cubism and the movement known as Modernism.
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Antoni Gaudi, "La Sagrada Familia, west facade" |
It was a recent trip to Barcelona that brought a sub-set of Modernism to mind again. In Catalonia the term is
Modernisme, and refers to the particularly Catalonian incarnation. Modernisme is definitely related to
Modernism although it has a distinct and tangy flavor of Barcelona in particular and Catalonia in general. The movement is typified by the well-known architect
Antoni Gaudi whose footprints are everywhere, from the justly famous church,
La Sagrada Familia to
La Pedrera (the quarry) and numerous other structures. In the mind of many, the church is in the Art Nouveau style that flourished around the turn of the 20th century, but the building is truly unique and reflects the flamboyant and utterly personal view of Mr. Gaudi. Unfinished but nearing completion, it was begun in 1882 with Mr. Gaudi as the principal (but not only) architect. The building merits an entire entry of its own, given the design departures, but it's hardly the only example of Modernisme in Barcelona.
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Antoni Gaudi, "La Pedrera" |
We also saw, from the outside, the famous La Pedrera (also known as La Casa Mila), originally designed as a residential building with an owner apartment and others to rent or lease. Again designed by Mr. Gaudi, this building is reputed to have no ninety degree angles anywhere. We didn't want to brave the lines for admission, having other things to do, and so didn't see the inside. Nevertheless, the exterior alone was worth seeing. The stonework flows like water around each floor with its rounded windows and exotic wrought iron. The structure is an absolute joy to see from the outside, and we regretted not being able to visit.
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Ramon Casas i Carbo, "Self Portrait," 1908 |
The average visitor to Barcelona will have seen these two buildings and acquired a very sketchy overview of Modernisme. In fact, there were writers, painters, architects, and others whose work can be placed into the same Catalonian movement. Months before we visited Barcelona, I had become aware of a Catalonian painter named
Ramon Casas i Carbo who was active at the same time as Mr. Gaudi. Although an enormous retrospective of his work was mounted in 2017, it had moved on from Barcelona by the time we visited. A number of his works stand with any painting by a European of his time.
There is a small private museum,
Museu del Modernisme (which we found a bit difficult to find), displaying not only paintings, drawings, posters, and sculpture by various artists, but also clocks, furniture, stained glass and art objects.
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Ramon Casas i Carbo, "Interior,"nd |
There are quite a few paintings by Mr. Casas, including my particular favorite, simply called "Interior," an undated bedroom scene with an ornate brass bed that simply glows. The light in the room seems to be an incandescent electric light, something very new for the day. There are other artists and designers featured in the Museu as well, but none so memorable.
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Ramon Casas i Carbo, "Anti-TB poster" nd |
In his later career, Mr. Casas did a great deal of illustration, making posters and other graphic art, a number of which the Museu had on display. In particular, he worked hard on the anti-tuberculosis campaign of the day. In those pre-antibiotic days, infectious disease was the scourge of humanity and prevention was still the best treatment.
Modernisme is probably best identified as an architectural movement, but in fact had adherents in Catalonia across the spectrum of art. My visit to Barcelona was too brief--only a few days--to sample much more than the usual big things like Sagrada Familia, but the city and Modernisme continue to beckon.
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Thumb Box Show Update
The Salmagundi Thumb Box Show this year was again quite successful. I mentioned in a
previous post that three of my pieces (two watercolor, one casein) were accepted, and ran an image of the casein piece, with a link to a previous post of the watercolors. Happily, the casein, a 6x8 still life on panel, sold during the show. Thanks to Salmagundi and best wishes to the new owner.
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