Southwest Virginia

"Houses Near Clifton Forge," wc, 3.5x7.0

We have been vacationing in the ancient green mountains of southwestern Virginia, not far from Roanoke. This is the countryside of early settlers like Daniel Boone, originally inhabited for thousands of years by native peoples before that, and thoroughly steeped in history. The old mountains are lower and softer and tree-covered, compared to the huge Rocky Mountains most of us are familiar with. Yet these mountains harbor more history per square mile than much of the continent. There is great beauty and much tragedy in these hills.

"Lee Chapel," wc, 3x5

We stayed with friends not far from Lexington, home of Virginia Military Institute and Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson. Lexington was also the final home of Robert E. Lee in his capacity as president of Washington College (1865-1870). We visited the campus (school had yet to begin, so it was quiet and peaceful), and the hall that Mr. Lee built while he was president, and which is still in use. The pew where he sat and the office he occupied in a lower level remain, as does quite a lot of history. The chapel is actually an assembly hall, having never been consecrated. The grounds and trees surrounding the old building are very calming, in contrast to the life of Mr. Lee. He and his family are entombed in a cryptlike place below the Chapel, which also houses a small but interesting museum. The city of Lexington remains wonderfully preserved in its 19th century buildings and streets.

Another spot we visited is Clifton Forge, a small town that is a former railroad hotspot, having been the site of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad's maintenance shops. The town houses a C&O museum, a historic theater that hosts everything from bluegrass to Shakespeare, and a burgeoning arts movement. Although a fairly small town, there are artists and arts in abundance. I spent part of the time doing outdoor sketching in a small park across from one of the art schools. The pocket park houses a lovely

"Near the Amphitheater," wc, ~4x8

amphitheater and leads to a bridge across Smith Creek, allowing pedestrians access from the busier side. I sat in the shade of one of the new trees and sketched the view uphill. Clifton Forge is nestled in one of the crinkly valleys in these mountains, so the backdrop is often a distant slope.

Because of the economic turmoil set off by the big changes in railroading, Clifton Forge has had

"Survivors," wc, ~4x8

some difficult years, but as the town rebuilds its structures and establishes a much different future, they have taken care to preserve much of their heritage. It's always fun and instructive for me to study old buildings repurposed for other needs. There are quite a number in the town, including old gas stations, former offices and former light industrial sites. One of the art schools occupies and old tire business, for example. I managed to sketch a few of those buildings, including the old gasoline station that is being converted to a visitor center.

These mountains are small, and worn, and full of the history of the continent. They're calming and quieting, and a place where you can be centered. A visit is a privilege.