Sketches from Monte Carlo

We've been visiting the south of France for the past few days, visiting the famous Monte Carlo casino in Monaco and other sites of interest. As is usually the case I have had the opportunity to sketch many of them. Like the rest of the Mediterranean world, there are picturesque sights (and sites) in abundance. Monaco is of course more glittering and glamorous than the rural parts of surrounding France, but there are stone villages that glow ochre and red in the beautiful light of this part of the world, beautiful vistas of the Mediterranean, and many many opportunities to soak up the history and culture. Sketching while here has been great fun. These are the first few little watercolor sketches I've managed. These are about 3.5x5.5 (postcard size). I used a standard method of a graphite layin then ink and watercolor washes.

This is a street in the the village of Eze, an ancient place about 10 miles or so from Nice on the Mediterranean coast. It's been occupied by humans since at least 2000 BCE and so has been under the rule of many differing civilizations and governments, from ancient Rome to the Moors to the House of Savoy. Today it is a hot tourist spot, replete with galleries, shops, and restaurants. In fact, Eze has become rather "Disneyfied," which means that today few locals actually live in the village. (Locally they call it "Tourist Ville.")

Eze is situated on a rocky knob of land about 1500 feet above the Mediterranean coast and so has dramatic vistas of the sea and coastline. It was a fortified place, a walled castle city with a postern gate and a winding way to the summit, but much was destroyed in various wars--the city walls are gone, for example. At the summit is a well-known exotic garden, and all along the walk to the top you're treated to art and antiquities in the shops along the way. The climb is strenuous but the top is worth the effort. We spent part of the day there and ate a delightful alfresco lunch at the top.

Most of our first few days was spent in Monaco itself, home of the storied Casino and the famous Grand Prix, which winds through the narrow, switch-back streets every year. Monaco is home to great wealth, owing to its tax laws which encourage residency of the rich and famous. (As an example, on one street near the harbor are dealerships for Rolls Royce, McLaren, Ferrari, and Mercedes Benz. City information says that over a third of the 35,000 population of the city are millionaires.

This is the Opera in Monaco, not far from the better-known Casino. The late Victorian architecture is striking and reflective of the overall look of the older section of the city. We spent some time outside in a delightful garden setting there before making our way back to our lodgings. Although winter is as heavy on Europe as it is at home, here on the coast the temperatures are moderate, warm enough to dine outside with highs in the 50s, although often cloudy and rainy.

This is the facade of the famous Monte Carlo Casino, dating to the 1880s. The Casino was built by the ruling Grimaldi family as a source of income after other earning opportunities were lost, and it has been an upper crust gambling venue ever since. The fabled location of all sorts of movies (Casino Royale) and events, the Casino hews to an older standard, requiring proper dress and etiquette (men may not enter without a jacket, for example) and is visited by much of the wealthy international set. On any given day one can see evidence by looking at autos parked at the entrance. There is no shortage of Maybachs, Rolls Royces, Bentleys, and other spectacularly costly automobiles. For those of us with a less robust economic status, free admission to the lobby is available until 2 pm, but to gamble at the tables you must pay admission. Even then, the true high-rollers are sequestered in private rooms.

We will be here a few more days, and I will post a few more watercolors before we return to the states,